Victorian Fashions & Accessories1837 - 1901

Whilst researching on Victorian Era's Fashion I picked up these books from the library:

 In general, Victorian style is very romantic and the same time chaotic. Looking at the way women dressed back then their silhouettes changed quite frequently. Foe example, between 1840 - 1850 never in the history of fashion have clothing and accessories been designed to make women appear so helpless, vulnerable, modest and in need for men's help. You can observe from the images that in their clothing everything was done to promote this image

 Slimming bell-skirts and balloon shaped sleeves at the top but long and tight at the bottom. Distinctive hour-glass shape body, which was pushing the chest up and tilting the hips backwards

 The fashion back in Victorian times, when the system of social classification was stiff, was varied from class to class. Class could be easily recognised by looking at clothes and hats. One of the signs of high-society was that women would wear short gloves even indoors (to show that they did not work)
Below image of later day wear style 1895, bell-like skirts, richly embroidered, belted waists

You can see here how the bodice, worn over very tight corsets, was long and narrow with a pinched-in waist, the sleeves look tight and restricting

The use of only two colours and several materials was very fashionable, as the British magazine "The Queen" explained in 1887: " There is no such thing as a dress made of single material". The dress was usually made of a dark shade and its trimmings of a lighter shade

1875-1880 there was change in silhouette. Trimmings began below the hips and extended to a long, mermaid-like, fishtail train. Sewing machines were quite new inventions, so allowed less hand-sewing but more fancy and complex trimmings i.e frills, flounces, quilting, tasseled cords, lace and fur.

Gigot or leg-of-mutton sleeves, which reached maximum width between 1895-1897

Paper hand painted or feather fans were very fashionable. I found that during the Victorian Era fans had their own "language". Here is the link to the blog:
http://b-womeninamericanhistory19.blogspot.co.uk/2010/08/african-american-women-language-of-fan.html
Please note, this blog is about 19th-century American women. But since in Britain were those who followed the current European and American Aesthetic Movement, which worshiped these fashionable fans I'm sure this "language" of the fan was spread across globally.

This is an example of a Wedding Dresses

Large shawls, embroider in silk for summer and woolen cashmere for winter, were either worn or carried

Bonnets usually hid the face, i.e. the brim usually sat low over the ears and was far forward, to prevent women from looking sideways or being seen, except from the front. This picture below shows a more face-revealing bonnet made of stiffened lace. Some other bonnets were silk-trimmed and adorned with artificial flowers and leaves

Full skirt, which were supported by many petticoats, look quite restricting. Dresses were either closed, or open (like on image below) to reveal a filled-in bodice and petticoat

Trimming consisted of lace and ribbons, and colours were mostly muted with soft fabrics.
Below image is from 1850-1855. The full skirt looks more frilled with matching sleeves in "pagoda" shapes, with some lace under the sleeves. Apparently, in attempt to relieve the weight of the skirts, some petticoats were stiffened with hoops of horsehair, metal, and sometimes rubber tubes

This bonnet looks much further on the head. This was worn by women during the day indoors. Women wore muslin and lace caps with long lappets and much flowery decorations

During the 1850s naturalism was in favour, all natural decorations, flowers and leaves
Decorations for the head also consisted of concoctions of feathers, flowers and beads

With regards to jewellery, curved corals adorned with gold were very popular; again naturalism. Gold, emerald and diamonds were present in evening jewellery. Also, dog collars and chokers were fashionable. For example a pearl diamond choker style have been created by Princess Alexandra after she married the Prince of Wales in 1863, to conceal a scar on her neck. As she was not only royal, but also beautiful and a leader of fashion, society ladies followed her example.

In general Day Wear was very different than Evening wear. Very long-trained evening dresses were even bulkier than for day wear, fastened with lace, ribbons, artificial flowers, buttons and bows.

 

Here is a small collage of Victorian hairstyling, from Early Victorian 1837-60 through to Mid-Victorian 1860-80 and up until the Late Victorian period 1880-1901.

I've selected my very favorite ones. For Stella's look I would like to make an early Victorian Bonnet (from 1940). Please click on image to enlarge for details.

The brim is quite small and circular in shape, it has flowers around it and a ribbon. This will perfectly accommodate an elaborate set of ringlets on both sides.Very girly and young style.

Miss Havisham, on the other hand, I need to portray as if she is still wearing her once beautifully arranged up-do hair, which has fallen apart. This would be most appropriate for her character. 

Although the wearing of dress caps was confined to women past middle age, Miss Havisham is stuck in the past time and remain in her young attire. Besides, gradually by the end of 1880s the cap as a head-wear for fashionable women ceased to exist 

I went to Hampshire Wardrobe shop in Winchester as part of my primary research and to see costumes for hire. I've taken some photographs of the costumes I liked the most. Great shop, but they have very limited sizes: