HISTORY OF HOLLYWOOD GLAMOUR - LECT.1 - with Kieron Butler
We had fascinating lecture with Kieron on how film technology has developed since early film 1910's to modern days.
Back in 1910's there was an Orthochromatic Film stock, which was only sensitive to two colours (blue and green) and there was no yellow or red sensitivity to light. In order to have a good contrast and define facial and bodily features actors had to wear heavy pink greasepaint, black eye liner and deep red lipstick. Faces and bodies then on film appeared white and had high contrast to them. Sometimes these films were tinted in mono colour.
Here is example of Orthochromatic Film Stock, most prominent and the pioneer of filming was Helen Gardner as Cleopatra in 1912:
Screen-grab: helengardner.org
There are other actors and actresses like: Lillian Gish, Louse Brooks, Buster Keaton, Charlie Chaplin.
In mid-1920's onwards Panchromatic film stock came into place. Although was introduced in 1913, as these films were more expensive to produce they really took place in 1925. It was sensitive to all wavelengths of visible light. Several shades of grey now work with panchromatic films. It appears not as high contrast, greater tonal range i.e. sky doesn't look just over exposed, you can now see the clouds in the sky, and capture more details. I found this image online on baclthroughtime.wordpress.com. You can clearly see the difference:
Panchromatic film stock also allowed for actors to look more natural, to have more fuller lips. Moreover, this technology adapted more creative process in ageing actors, as drastically as from early 20's of age to 80 years of age (Orson Welles in "Citizen Kane" 1941).
In order to make up actors and create the character they used PANCAKE Make-up.
Moreover, Panchromatic Film Stock had a more adaptable to film narrative as it allowed a greater use of close-ups.
Some prominent actors and actresses during this time were: Marlene Dietrich "Blonde Venus" 1932,
Maria Falconetti "La Passion de Jeanne d'Arc" 1928, Ingrid Bergman "Casablanca" 1942.
As technology progress the Technicolor Film Stock comes along from 1930's onwards. Although two-colour (Red and Green) Technicolor system it was invented in 1916, which was slightly more resembling real life. "Toll of the Sea" 1922, and "Phantom of the Opera" 1925, where bright red costume appears and scarring life out of viewers.
The actual process of Technicolor Film arrives in 1929. Levels of colour were more saturated and it was broadly used for musicals and costume pictures. Very first films which were filmed with three colours were "The Adventures of Robin Hood" 1938 and "Gone with the Wind" 1939. Use of heavy make-up was still essential in order to be captured by the lens. You can see the difference in "The Wizard of Oz" 1939 clear use of Panchromatic and Technicolor technology, the characters appear more
natural and have a lot more definition to their features as well as colour.
This process was screwed up as the war came along.
Later, it was back in light with "Gentleman Prefer Blondes" 1953 and "Red Shoes" 1948.
Since 1940s Make-up gets more glamorous.
Hollywood pioneers of Make-up industry were:
Max Factor in 1914: develops Flexible Greasepaint, 12-toned foundation which was reflective under studio lighting. In 1928: creates Pan-Cake foundation and powder in one. It was more lightweight and natural-looking on skin. It was only for film use. Yet in 1937 he patents Pan-Cake for personal and wide spread use.
"I believe I have created in cosmetic color harmony a lifelike naturalness in make-up which every woman will find, as we in Hollywood have proved, to be without equal in accentuating beauty and charm!" Max Factor
George Westmore and Family founded first make-up department in 1917. Also, fathered three generations of movie makeup artists. It was estimated that 80% of all movies between 1930 and 1950 had Westmore's name in credits.
Cecil Holland was head of MGM make up from 1925.
- By 1940's the department was so huge that over a 1000 actors could be made un in one hour.
- Demanded his employees be treated as artists, not technicians
- Succeeded by Jack Dawn and William Tuttle.
EASTmancolor Film Stock was around since 1950's onwards.
It was created by Kodak in 1950 and recorded 3 primary colours in 3 emulsion layers on one strip of film. It was cheaper to shoot, more convenient on location and easier to process. Major improvements were that less lighting needed to be involved, it was faster to film and it provided a gritty and naturalistic aesthetic.
It was used internationally in Bollywood dramas (Kabni Kabhi 1978). Also, used in popular TV series "Star Trek" and "Charlie's Angels" 1976. In dramas from 60's onwards i.e. "Dynasty" 1981, "The Colby's" 1985.
Later on in thriller series "Twin Peaks" 1990, comedy "Clueless" 1995, and "Girl Interrupted" 1999.
HD (High-Definition Video) 1990's onwards
HD technology has popularised use of Airbrush makeup in film and TV. Since the traditional powder or liquid based make-up can settle in wrinkles and pores, and show up in HD.
Airbrush is finer and can create an even, sheer and natural appearance to the skin. It wears longer and far more versatile than traditional make-up.
Examples where HD and Airbrush make-up used:
"X-Men" 2000, "Alice in Wonderland" 2010 and "Black Swan" 2011.
Future technology with HFR (Higher Frame Rate) in "The Hobbit" 2012. This technology is so crystal clear on the other hand the makes make-up artist job a complete nightmare. It has to be completely blemish-free and must look natural, otherwise this will show up as a make-up rather than a characteristics.
As a summary of this lecture I've created some examples how colour looks vs black&white. It is interesting how colours convert in unexpected shades. Check this out:
CHARACTERS IN COMEDY & PERIOD DRAMA - LECT.3 - With Kieron Butler
Comedy characterisation using disguise, caricatures, stereotypes, grosteques
For Example in "Mrs. Doubtfire"the actor had to wear padding to give him a womanly shape. His real hair was sleaked back and tucked in under a wig cap. Foam latex rubber pieces were fit together on his face and neck. The latex then was painted with base colour and then many other make up on top to give "peaches and cream" look to the character:
Another example of Tony Curtis & Jack Lemmon, "Some Like It Hot". The characters undergone slightly quicker transformation, using make up, wigs and women's attire and turned into a drag queens:
A lot of women actresses are impersonated in men. Gwyneth Paltrow, "Shakespeare in Love". The atress was transformed into a man:
Body shape from skinny to exaggerated body proportions (using fat body suits) in "Shallow Hal" 2001 (Make up design by Tony Gardner):
Multiple Characters
Disguise is not part of the plot, and in fact different parts can be played by different actors
"Dr.Strangelove", 1964
Or Eddie Murphy plays miltiple roles in one film "Coming to America" (1988). In fact he played four characters
The makeup designer for "Coming to America" and the "Nutty Proffessor" is Rick Baker
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